Sac Valley Hydro Trip

A couple days ago, I tagged along on a hydro fam trip conducted by Cindy, the hydrologist for the Sacramento NWS office. She proved to be a true expert in the field; in addition to knowing the river basin cold, she knew the mechanical workings of every river gauge, weir system, and floodgate operation. I had no idea how complex-and efficient- the Sacramento valley flood control system is. It involves a myriad of dams, weirs, bypass channels, and levees. The system has been essentially complete for 60-80 years, though the first levees in the region date from 1862, right after the wettest water year in San Francisco history basically turned the Sac valley into a huge lake. This pic shows the outfall gates at Knights Landing. These gates separate runoff from the creeks draining the mountains to the west from the Sacramento River. Along with a system of pumps, they provide both flood control and irrigation water for the surrounding area.

Here, Brooke is presenting the Sacramento river gage at Colusa. This is the only gage that has the monitor and flood stage posted, along with a digital readout of the current stage. Great idea! (the digital readout is working but wasn't visible in this picture). Why isn't it done in more places? Basically because most gages are in much more secluded areas; this one is right next to the bridge over the river in the town where many people pass by every day. The hydro office and the local farmers have coordinated very efficiently, and most local people know exactly what stage of the river will cause flooding of their land.

This is the Sacramento weir, adjacent to the river just upstream from the city. There is a system of weirs and bypass channels farther upstream that is designed to protect valley cities and towns from high water, but when the water REALLY gets high, this weir is opened to protect Sacramento from flooding. It allows huge amounts of excess water to flow into the Yolo bypass west of the city, thence into San Francisco Bay. There are 48 gates in the weir; the last time they all had to be opened was in 1997 during the massive flooding associated with a major Pineapple express event that dumped torrential rain from sea level up to 10 thousand feet elevation. Amazingly, the gates have to be manually opened, and it's a media event when this happens. The system was implemented in the 1930s and has effectively protected Sac from major flooding for 70 years. In this picture, the river is a couple hundred yards to the right.

Ice Age Relic

Lake Abert is an unusual place. It lies in the desert of southeastern Oregon, a little north of Lakeview. It's highly alkaline; a somewhat rotten aroma pervades the shoreline. The country around the lake is quite dry, and it seems odd that such a large lake (15-20 miles long) can survive in the area.

But the lake is a remnant of a much larger body of water...Lake Chewaucan, an Ice Age inland sea that was several hundred feet deep and extended 30-40 miles to the west, to include present day Summer Lake. The climate of the region was much cooler and wetter than it is today, and rain and snowmelt generated many large lakes in the Great Basin. Now, 15-20 thousand years later, with the climate warming and drying, lakes like Abert and Goose (see previous post) are the last remnants of the vast Ice Age lakes that covered the region. They must have been beautiful, not all that different from todays Great Lakes. But, if current trends continue, most or all of the remnant lakes will probably be dry for the long term within a century or two.

Immediately to the east of Lake Abert lies the Abert Rim. It's the prominent cliff on the left of this picture. Southeast Oregon has had a turbulent geology. About 16 million years ago, the region was covered with a deep layer of basalt after lava spread across a huge area. Over the ages since, faulting split the basalt lands into blocks and tilted many of them; the block on which the lake lies has dropped about 2000 feet below the rim and its block. This pattern is evident throughout the region, which features several long ridges towering over adjacent lowlands, many of which contain remnant lakes.

On a day with clouds, the light and shadows on the lake change constantly. It's rather surreal, seeing such a large body of water in the desert. There are a lot of brine shrimp in the lake, which attract many birds for the feast.

Geese at Goose Lake!

This is a picture of Canada geese hanging out at...Goose Lake! Appropriate, I reckon. Goose Lake is located on the California-Oregon border just south of Lakeview, Oregon. I guess the lake was visible from the town at the time it was named; it's not now as the lake has apparently receded since the 19th century. But it's still rather extensive, though only nine feet deep on average. Goose Lake has a history of fluctuation. During the last 150 years it's been much larger than it is now, and it's also dried up completely, as recently as 1992. Some water that previously flowed into it is now diverted for agriculture, so the lake will probably never rise too much higher than it is today.

Here the lake's former shoreline is visible, a good mile from the current water's edge in many places.

Nature's Pure Abstract Art

The John Day Fossil Beds in Central Oregon are world famous as one of the best areas on earth for the collection of evidence of prehistoric life. The fossils, found by the thousands, are mainly 7

to 45 million years old and chronicle the majority of the Cenozoic era. The climate during most of that time was warmer and wetter than today. Many areas of those prehistoric soils have turned from dirt to hard clay, and are rich in fossils. But, equally amazing, the clay is almost impervious to plant life; it's too hard and dense for roots to take hold, and most water that falls on it runs off. Thus, the fossil lands are badlands, with all sorts of intriguing shapes. They are multicolored, depending on the chemical composition of the clay. Erosion patterns are stark and precisely defined. Being barren, the clay assumes an elemental, abstract form. Ma Nature can be really cool!

Somehow, a single rock became situated in the middle of this clay hillside. By the way, I learned that the red clay in these formations is called Bentonite. It has several commercial uses. Among other things, it's made into kitty litter!

Stratification Sensation

In the John Day fossil beds, many layers of silt and ash were laid down by water and volcanic eruptions over eons of time. With different chemical compositions, the layers assumed varying colors. The result is gorgeous!

The Lizard goes abstract

The Lizard enjoyed the country around the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument. Not only is it dry, as he likes it, but the landscape is bizarre to the point of abstraction. Here The Lizard is hangin' in a bed of clay. It's kapu for humans to walk here since we'll mess it up, but The Lizard is light enough to do the landscape no harm.

16 million years ago, lava flowed across the Central Oregon landscape en masse. When it cooled fairly rapidly, the result was columns of basalt. These are at the mouth of Picture Gorge, about 35 miles west of John Day. There are similar formations in the Columbia Gorge; at Devils Postpile NM in the California Sierra; and at the Giant's Causeway in Ireland.

The varying minerals in the soil create an artist's palette of colors in the Painted Hills region west of John Day. It's very cool.

Classic Ponderosa

I've always liked the ponderosa pine forests of the west. The trees are majestic, and many are a bit gnarled and, like saguaro cactus, have their own personalities. The country in which they grow is neither lush nor arid, right in between, and I've always liked that environment.

The bark of the ponderosa is a beautiful reddish brown, with intricate patterns. Up close, it's rather abstract.

Lizard in the Sage

The Lizard always enjoys visiting deserts, regardless of their nature. Here he is in the sagebrush of Eastern Oregon.

Sagebrush Empire

Yesterday I drove over to Fort Rock, in the Oregon desert about 75 miles southeast of Bend. This is a volcanic formation that was created by an explosive eruption. Magma heading for the surface hit water and went boom, sending masses of lava and mud into the air, creating a circular rock formation when everything cooled and hardened. This ocurred during the Ice Age, when, amazingly, a huge lake covered the area instead of today's sagebrush desert. The prevailing south winds brought waves lapping up against the formation, eventually eroding away the southern wall. What's left is a crescent shaped amphitheatre open to the south.

There are some wiiiiide open spaces around here. In the early 20th century many homesteaders came here, taking advantage of free land, and tried to make a living by farming. Most of them went bust...only 10-12 inches of rain fall here in an average year. Today there's some farming where efficient irrigation is employed, but most of the area remains a vast sagebrush desert. This part of Oregon reminds me of remote areas of Australia, and indeed the region is now promoted as Oregon's outback. It's an apt description.

Up close, the sage presents a myriad of tangled forms. It's blooming, adding some color to the landscape. If you take a sprig of sage and crush it between your fingers, you can enjoy its fragrant aroma. This also occurs after rain, but that can be rare.

Beautiful Benham Falls

Yesterday I hiked to Benham Falls, on the Deschutes River between Sunriver and Bend. I probably blogged this site last year, but it really is spectacular, a juxtaposition of roaring water; fragrant pine forest; mountains, sky, and, in mid September, early fall colors. The falls were created about 6600 years ago, when lava spread across the landscape and blocked the path of the Deschutes. A lake developed behind a lava dam, then the river broke through the dam and carved a new channel right through the lava! Farther downstream, the river took a course right next to the edge of the lava flow.

Here's a classic shot of the Deschutes, just downstream from Benham Falls. It was a gorgeous fall day, with warm sun and a crisp breeze, temp in the mid 60s.

When you think of it, there probably aren't many places in the world where you can see a river running right next to a lava field, with fall colors in the foreground. With the obsidian flows of Newberry Crater; the Cascades; the desert; the rivers; and unlimited year round recreation, plus a nice hub in the city of Bend, Central Oregon is a rare...and very nice...area.

The Lizard Does the Obsidian

Once again, The Lizard has found an unusual and scenic spot...here he is perched in the obsidian flow near Paulina Lake, in Newberry Crater. The crater has a history similar to Mount Mazama. Both mountains collapsed after massive eruptions emptied the magma chamber beneath them. Both calderas then filled with water; Crater Lake in Mount Mazama, Paulina and East Lakes in Newberry. The two lakes here may have been one body of water in the past, before later eruptions produced lava fields which bisected the original large lake into two smaller ones.

After 1300 years, the obsidian field is still mostly barren. However, there are a few patches of soil among the rocks, and a few very hardy trees have managed to eke out an existence. They're truly tough survivors; in addition to the rocky terrain, the climate is cold and often harsh. We're about 6500 feet above sea level here.

Newberry Crater Ramblings

Yesterday I went up to Newberry Crater National Volcanic Monument and did a little hiking and exploring. I found this tree that seemed to be questioning everything!

This is kind of an abstract shot. Bayond the forest, the jumble of rocks is an obsidian flow, about 1300 years old. The obsidian is volcanic rock that has a 73 percent silica content, about the same as window glass. It has cooled rapidly and retains its glassy form as a result. It has long been prized by the local Native Americans, who made first rate tools from it, especially arrowheads and spear points.

Here's a picture from within the obsidian field. The black, shiny rock assumes many jagged forms, with each facet reflecting light differently. It's quite surreal. Obsidian is rare; it's only found in a few spots throughout the world.

Old Mount Mazama

I made a brief stop at Crater Lake NP on my way to Sunriver yesterday. Enroute I transited the Pumice Desert. This area was the victim of a pyroclastic flow when Mount Mazama blew up about 7700 years ago. A massive, hot wall of ash, rock, and cinders roared down the north slope of the mountain, obliterating everything in its path. All this time later, only a few trees grow in much of the area, which still has very poor soil...mostly pumice and ash. By the way, in the distance is Mount Thielsen, a distinctive older volcano in the Cascades. Its sharp pointed summit is an old lava plug, which has remained intact as ice age glaciation and general erosion have swept away the softer rock that originally surrounded the plug. Central Oregon is full of this type of interesting geology.

I thought this image was cool, kind of abstract. This is one of the tour boats that cruises Crater Lake. It even lands on Wizard Island, and you can do a little hiking there. The catch is that to get to the tour boat you have to be able to hike down a wide but fairly steep trail to the lake level. I did it once and will repeat when I have the time. On this occasion I was just sloating out on some rocks overlooking the hypnotically blue lake, which is my favorite pastime when Im here.

The Lizard is at another power spot. He loves such locales, and having been at both Mono and Crater Lakes in less than a month was a real treat for him! While he was hangin' out a chipmunk scurried up and checked him out. Here they're both enjoying the fine view of the lake. Blow the pic up for a better view of the critters.

Highway 138 is Great!

Yesterday I drove from Roseburg to Sunriver via highway 138, which follows the North Umpqua River into the Cascades. The highway passes thru very fine scenery, and there are a horde of recreational opportunities enroute. There's a trail that goes for dozens of miles along the north bank of the river...the highway is mostly on the south bank. Rafting, camping, and fishing are popular, and a major cycling event was ongoing while I drove the highway. It's a very neat area.

The forests are deep and lush, and on a sunny day the patterns of light and shadows are almost mystical. This pic was taken on the way up to Fall Creek Falls, a short but moderately challenging and very beautiful hike.

This is Watson Falls, also on highway 138. There are four or five nice waterfalls within a mile of the highway. This one is over 250 feet high, about half a mile (steep) off the road.

The Lizard Does Oregon

Here's The Lizard on the Oregon coast...out of his preferred desert habitat. But tomorrow we're headin' east into the sage country of Central Oregon and he'll be happy there.

The Marvelous Southern Oregon Coast

I drove up the Southern Oregon coast as far as Bandon today. This section of the Pacific shoreline is not as publicized as many others. It's remote...about 300 miles from Portland, 400 from San Francisco. There are only a few resorts, and only one large town...Brookings. Yet it's prettier than almost any other seaside region from Canada to Mexico. Perhaps Big Sur is more spectacular, but this coast is awesome in its own right. There are hundreds of picturesque offshore rocks; many fine, isolated beaches strewn with masses of driftwood; and miles of peace and solitude.

This pic of an arch and the one above were taken in Samuel Boardman State Park, just north of Brookings. In addition to the awesome views, trails wind through the dense coastal forest, alternating between nestling in the woods and emerging at fine vista points.

Today was cool and overcast, more typical of midsummer than mid September, when it's often sunny and warm. But the coast is fine under any weather conditions. On a gray day the atmosphere becomes brooding and reflective, but very peaceful, especially considering that there was little wind.

A cloudy day with an unusually tranquil ocean is a good setting for taking abstract photos, where the land, sea, and sky blend together. This rock looks somewhat like a shark's tooth.

Da Bear

Where highway 101 goes over the Klamath River in far Northern California, for many decades there have been two golden bears mounted at each end of the bridge. The bruins stand guard over the crossing, and look pretty stylish in the process!

A Sail on the American River

On Labor Day I went rafting with most of Brooke's family on the South Fork of the American River. Now for a pinniped like myself, immersion in water is of course completely natural, so this trip was heaps of fun! We traversed about 9 miles of the river over a period of about three hours. There were a number of class III rapids, nothing deadly but certainly enough to get your attention, as these pictures show.


Notice our guide, Ravi, in the back of the raft; he's obviously been down this stretch of the river many times so to keep himself entertained, he's not using any hands or paddles to keep himself in the raft. The rest of us are just hangin' on.

















Here, your correspondent and his friends are momentarily submerged. Only Ravi remains above water, expertly navigating us thru the perils of the rapids.

Hangin' out at the shore

Here Brooke and I are hanging out at Spike and Danny's fabulous house overlooking the ocean at Moss Beach, about 20 miles south of San Francisco. The house is a great party spot in its own right, with several decks overlooking the ocean. There's also a hot tub and a barbeque. Danny is a gourmet cook, plus there's a great Indian restaurant and a nice brekky spot within walking distance. You can walk along the cliffside trails above the Pacific, watch the surfies catch waves at Maverick's, and wind up at a brewpub by the sea with a fine outdoor deck. Or, late in the afternoon, you can saunter down onto the docks and buy live crab, freshly caught, straight from the fishermen on their boats! It's a good life the coastside folks have.

Coastal Scenes

Drove from Moss Beach to Crescent City today. Scenery abounds, both coastal and inland. Here's a shot of the Golden Gate Bridge from the vista point at the north end of the bridge. Notice how each hole in the tower is slightly different in shape. Very cool. The bridge is an art deco masterpiece, completed in 1937.