Kilkenny

I spent today roaming around Kilkenny. The town is a fascinating blend of medieval history and modern energy, a combination that doesn't exist in the States. This is St Canice's Cathedral, which was completed in 1285. There had been other places of worship on this site before. A wooden church burned down in 1087. The structure on the right, the Round Tower, predates the cathedral by centuries...it was constructed in 849. The cathedral used to have a bell tower. This collapsed as the end result of a downright medieval scandal. It seems a prominent woman in town, Dame Alice Kyteler, ran through four wealthy husbands in a suspiciously short period of time. As a result the local bishop, Richard Ledrede, charged and convicted her...and her maid...of witchcraft. Alice's nephew, William Outlawe, was also implicated. After all, he WAS an Outlawe! In the end Dame Alice bailed to London. Her maid, left behind, was burned at the stake. William was very strongly encouraged to finance a reroofing of the bell tower, which he did. In those days the roofing tiles were made of lead, and the weight of the new roof caused the tower to collapse in 1332. It is not known whether or not this was William's intention! The bishop also fell into disfavor, but returned after a 20 year exile and refurbished the damaged building. He's buried here. The first picture shows his sarcophagus.

Magnificent stained glass windows adorn the cathedral...for a really good pic you'd need a tripod. These are new by European standards...built in the 19th century during a renovation which is ongoing. This was required because Oliver Cromwell trashed the place in 1650. He destroyed the ancient and reportedly exquisite windows, deconsecrated the church, and used it as a stable for his horses. This was all rather typical of the depredations Cromwell visited on Ireland...he's not a popular fellow in these parts.

The cathedral has a model of Kilkenny as it existed in 1642. It hasn't changed all that much, except the buildings have all got nice new coats of paint. The streets are still narrow and not very conducive to cars, so it's better to walk.

The 1642 model depicts the city's walls. Several segments of the old stone barriers still exist, including this gate.

Another shot of Kilkenny Castle, shown yesterday as well. Most of the Butler Family, who owned the castle from 1391 to 1967, are buried at St Canice's.